Ingredient Guides
9 min read
Hydrating vs. Moisturizing: What Each One Does for Your Skin
Hydrating products draw water in; moisturizing products help hold it there. How humectants, occlusives, and emollients differ, and how to pick what you need.
Key Takeaways
“Hydrating” usually means a product draws water into the outer layer of skin. “Moisturizing” usually means it helps slow that water’s escape and softens rough-looking patches.
Three kinds of ingredients do the work: humectants, such as Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid, attract water; occlusives, such as Petrolatum and Dimethicone, slow its loss; and emollients, such as Shea Butter and Ceramides, smooth the gaps.
Most skin may benefit from both. Cleveland Clinic’s dermatologist says a good moisturizer contains ingredients from all three classes.
Format tells you a lot: DermNet ranks ointments as the most occlusive, then creams, then lotions.
Either kind may do more if it’s applied to damp skin within a few minutes of washing.
The Short Answer
Hydrating and moisturizing are two halves of the same job. Hydrating ingredients, called humectants, attract and hold water in the outer layer of skin, according to DermNet. Moisturizing ingredients, called occlusives and emollients, form a layer that slows water loss and smooth the cracks that visible dryness leaves. Cleveland Clinic’s dermatologist advises choosing a moisturizer that combines all three.
Two Labels Used Loosely
Packaging treats “hydrating” and “moisturizing” as if they were separate product types, but even dermatologists use the words loosely. “Anything that hydrates your skin is considered a moisturizer,” Dr. Alejandra Estemalik tells Cleveland Clinic. DermNet notes that “emollient” and “moisturiser” are often used as if they mean the same thing, though an emollient can also be one specific ingredient inside a moisturizer.
So the useful question isn’t which word is on the front of the bottle. It’s which ingredients are on the back, and what each one does with water.
Where the Water Goes
The outer layer of skin, the stratum corneum, is where both kinds of product do their work. It’s also where the moisture barrier sits. Cleveland Clinic likens it to a brick wall, with tough skin cells as the bricks and the skin’s natural lipids as the mortar that fills the gaps between them.
Collagen and elastin sit lower, in the dermis, which Cleveland Clinic describes as holding a network of collagen and elastin fibers. Hydrating the outer layer isn’t the same thing as adding collagen. What a well-watered outer layer may change is how skin looks and feels: visibly smoother and softer, with fewer rough-looking patches. That’s a change in appearance rather than in structure, and it’s likely to fade if you stop.
The Three Ingredient Roles
DermNet sorts the contents of a moisturizer into three groups, and Cleveland Clinic uses the same three.
Role | What it does | Examples named by DermNet or Cleveland Clinic | Hydrating or moisturizing? |
|---|---|---|---|
Humectant | Attracts water and holds it in the outer layer | Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Urea, Sorbitol, Lactic Acid | Hydrating |
Occlusive | Forms a thin layer of oil that slows water evaporating | Petrolatum, Paraffin, Mineral Oil, Dimethicone, Lanolin | Moisturizing |
Emollient | Fills cracks so skin looks smoother and feels softer | Lanolin, Shea Butter, plant oils, Ceramides | Moisturizing |
Humectants: Bringing Water In
DermNet describes humectants as “water-loving” ingredients that attract and retain water, much like the skin’s own natural hydrating factors. Cleveland Clinic adds a detail that explains why a humectant on its own may not be enough: It says humectants draw water up from the dermis to the outer layer, and can use water from humid air. Pair a humectant with something that holds the water in, and that water has somewhere to stay.
One surprise on DermNet’s list is that some exfoliating acids, including Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, and Salicylic Acid, also count as humectants. DermNet also notes that Urea and other acidic preparations often sting when applied to scratched or cracked skin.
Occlusives: Holding Water There
Occlusives sit on top. DermNet says they form a layer of oil that reduces evaporative water loss from the stratum corneum. Cleveland Clinic’s Dr. Estemalik says they work in tandem with humectants, helping skin stay hydrated longer. The tradeoff is weight: The most occlusive products can feel greasy, and DermNet notes that occlusive emollients can aggravate acne and folliculitis in some people.
Emollients: Smoothing the Gaps
Dr. Estemalik compares emollients to asphalt patches on a road full of potholes: They fill the cracks visible dryness leaves, which can help skin look smoother and feel softer. She adds that they can double as occlusives, so you’re getting two jobs in one. Ceramides belong here, and Cleveland Clinic notes that natural Ceramides make up about half of the epidermis and help lock in moisture. Our guide to ceramide moisturizers compares creams built around them.
Formats From Lightest to Richest
The product’s texture is a quick shorthand for how much it moisturizes versus hydrates. DermNet ranks formats from most to least occlusive:
Ointments: They’re the most occlusive. DermNet calls them best for dry, thick, scaly areas, though some people find them too greasy for visible areas.
Creams: Lighter than ointments and absorbed more quickly, so they may need applying more often.
Lotions: Often used for mild visible dryness and for hairy areas, such as the scalp.
Gels, serums, and mists are often lighter still, and many lean on humectants. Cleveland Clinic’s Dr. Estemalik notes that lotions contain more water and alcohol than creams, so they’re more likely to leave body skin dry, but she says a gel or lotion is generally better for the face, which has thinner skin, unless the face is very dry.
If you want a hydrating step to layer under a cream, our guide to hydrating face serums is a starting point, and our roundup of Hyaluronic Acid moisturizers covers formulas that combine both jobs in one.
Which Does Your Skin Need? A Decision Guide
Go by what your skin’s telling you, not the label on the jar.
Your face feels tight after washing but gets shiny by midday: Start with a lightweight hydrator, such as a Glycerin or Hyaluronic Acid gel or lotion, and look for “noncomedogenic” on the label, which Cleveland Clinic recommends for facial moisturizers.
You see flakes and rough-looking patches: It’s likely a moisturizing job. Choose a cream with emollients and occlusives, such as Ceramides, Shea Butter, or Dimethicone.
Skin stings when products are applied: Keep it simple and fragrance-free. Dr. Estemalik advises avoiding fragrances and botanicals if your skin is sensitive, and DermNet notes acidic humectants can sting cracked skin.
Very dry patches that don’t budge: DermNet says very dry skin may benefit from a greasy, occlusive moisturizer applied every couple of hours, while slightly dry skin may need only a light moisturizer at night.
You already use a hydrating serum and still feel dry: Seal it in. A cream or a thin layer of Petrolatum over the top can help hold that water in place.
Weather Changes the Balance
The same product won’t necessarily feel the same in July and January. Cleveland Clinic notes that humectants can draw on water in humid air, and that cold weather can leave skin feeling tight and itchy even with basic hygiene. Its dry skin overview adds that dry skin is often worse in winter and in low-humidity climates.
In practice, that’s a case for a seasonal swap rather than a whole new routine:
Humid months: A light gel or lotion with a humectant may be all your face needs, especially if it tends to look shiny.
Cold or dry months: Keep the humectant, but put a cream with occlusives and emollients over it, and consider a humidifier in the bedroom, which the AAD suggests running while you sleep.
Flights and heated offices: A small tube of a richer cream or a Petrolatum balm can help on the driest spots until you’re back home.
How to Apply Both for the Best Effect
Timing does a lot of the work. DermNet says leave-on moisturizers are most effective applied right after bathing, since water that has entered the skin stays there. Dr. Estemalik’s version is specific: Pat dry until you’re not dripping, keep a little water on the skin, and apply moisturizer within three minutes.
When you use both, it’s usually thinnest layer first:
Damp skin
A hydrating serum or essence, if you use one
A moisturizer or cream
In the morning, broad-spectrum sunscreen as the last step (Dr. Estemalik’s preference is a face moisturizer with a mineral SPF, such as Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide)
How often matters too. DermNet notes that a moisturizer’s effects are greatest in the first six hours, and that applying two to three times a day may be needed to get the most out of it.
How Long Before You Might Notice a Difference
A hydrator or moisturizer may make skin feel more comfortable soon after you apply it. Visible flaking and rough-looking texture can take longer, and the comfort is likely to fade if you stop, since neither product changes your skin type. Dr. Estemalik’s advice is consistency: Use a moisturizer after every bath or shower.
When to See a Board-Certified Dermatologist
If the right moisturizer and a gentler shower routine don’t help your dry skin, Cleveland Clinic suggests seeing a healthcare provider, such as a dermatologist. It’s also worth booking a visit with a board-certified dermatologist if:
Dry patches crack, bleed, or itch enough to wake you at night
Every product you apply burns or stings
You suspect eczema, which Dr. Estemalik notes is one condition where consistent moisturizing may reduce flares
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between hydrating and moisturizing?
Hydrating ingredients, or humectants, attract water into the outer layer of skin. Moisturizing ingredients, or occlusives and emollients, slow that water’s escape and smooth rough-looking patches. Cleveland Clinic’s dermatologist says a good moisturizer contains all three ingredient types.
Can I use a hydrating serum without a moisturizer?
You can, though its effect may not last as long on its own, and that’s where a moisturizer comes in. Cleveland Clinic says humectants draw water from deeper in the skin and from the air, and that occlusives help keep it there longer. In dry weather especially, a cream over the serum is the safer bet.
Are exfoliating acids hydrating?
Some are. DermNet lists Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, and Salicylic Acid among humectant ingredients. They can still sting cracked or very dry skin, so they’re not the first choice for a face that already feels raw.
Is a lotion or a cream better for my face?
It depends on how dry your face is. Cleveland Clinic’s dermatologist says a gel or lotion is generally better for the face unless you have very dry skin, in which case a cream may feel more comfortable.
Does a more expensive moisturizer hydrate better?
Not necessarily. Dr. Estemalik tells Cleveland Clinic that a high price doesn’t mean a product will work better, and that the mix of ingredients says more than the price does.